Spain

A Weekend in Barcelona

In December 2005 my girlfriend and I took a weekend’s city break in Barcelona in eastern Spain. At the time of booking our choice of destination was a toss up between Barcelona, Paris and Rome, none of which either of us had ever been to. For no particular reason, Barcelona came out on top and I’m very glad it did as we both had a fantastic time. This article is a brief summary of our weekend.

Having just moved into a new house, we didn’t have a very big budget to spend on this holiday so we found ourselves a couple of cheap flights to Barcelona, a low cost hotel near the city centre and bought the first guide book we could find. The weather when we touched down could probably best be described as abysmal but this didn’t dampen our spirits.

After finding our way to our hotel and dumping our bags, our first port of call was the nearest metro station (the metro is Barcelona’s equivalent of the London underground and is a great way to get around). We bought a three day unlimited pass for roughly €14 (£9.60) and hopped on a distinctly punctual and un-crowded train bound for La Sagrada Familia. If I were to recommend just one sight to see in Barcelona, La Sagrada Familia would be it. Gaudi devoted 40 years of his life to the design and construction of this extremely elaborate cathedral and building is still ongoing today. From the ground the building is extremely impressive and its spires each reach to a height of 300 feet with plans to extend this even further.

We paid €8 each to gain access to the cathedral and museums. Although an elevator is available inside the cathedral to take visitors to the top of the spires (at an additional cost) we chose to walk up the 400 plus steps to see the view from the top. The staircase is narrow and steep and I would only recommend the climb for those with strong legs and a head for heights! The climb was definitely worthwhile both for the views across the city and for the balconies along the way where you can stop at take a close up look at some of the hundreds of intricate carvings that decorate the exterior. We also took a walk around the museum and enjoyed the scale models and early photographs of the construction.

After some lunch we took a walk along La Rambla, the main street in Barcelona, towards the marina. Along the way you will see a great variety of stalls selling all sorts of goods from souvenirs to live birds. There is also a good deal of performance artists and street entertainers to watch which kept us amused for a couple of hours. We finished the day with tapas at a small restaurant before retiring for the evening.

The following morning, at my insistence, we took the metro to Collblanc to take a tour round the famous Nou Camp, home to Barcelona football club and renowned as one of the world’s greatest football stadiums. After wandering around outside the stadium for about half an hour trying to work out how to get in, we found the ticket office and paid €11 euros each for the tour. The stadium is vast and as a football fan it was a great experience to walk through the player’s tunnel and stand on the pitch side. The tour took us through the behind scenes areas of the stadium including the away changing room, the commentary gantry and the chapel that was installed to allow the religious players to pray before games.

We finished our visit with a trip around the museum, where trophies and pictures of Barcelona’s many successes are displayed. The photo of myself next to the European cup still hangs on the wall of my lounge. Although we didn’t get to watch a game as there wasn’t a home match being played the weekend we were there, it was still an extremely enjoyable and worthwhile excursion.

The afternoon was spent with a walk around the marina and a visit to L’Aquarium, a sea life centre with more than 450 different species of marine life. The entrance fee set us back €15.50. Many of the aquatic creatures were quite unusual and enjoyable to watch but the highlight of L’Aquarium for us was the underwater tunnel. This is an 80 metre long passage beneath an enormous tank, with sharks, rays and other fish swimming inches above your head.

Our last evening was spent eating Mexican food and drinking cocktails in a small, modern and trendy Mexican restaurant called Margarita Blue followed by several more drinks in the Hard Rock Café (how shamelessly touristy) and then on to Razzmatazz, a huge nightclub famous for live music. Needless to say, drinking late into the night didn’t make for the most enjoyable of flights home the next morning!

What not to Miss When Visiting Catalonia

The autonomous region of Catalonia boasts more than a thousand years of history, its own language and unique traditions and culture. 

Its 600km of stunning Mediterranean coastline stretches from Portbou at the French border to the Delta of the River Ebro. It encompasses the Costa Brava in the north, followed by the Costa del Maresme and then the Costa Dorada, where you’ll find the well-known resort of Salou, home to the largest theme park in Spain.

Catalonia is blessed with a remarkable variety of landscapes. To the north, the jagged peaks of the Pyrenees offer skiers, walkers and bikers a year-round haven.

The snowy peaks, reaching heights of 3,000km, tumble down through valleys of thriving pine and fir trees, clearing to reveal shimmering lakes. There are oddly formed mountain ranges like the extinct volcanic parklands around Olot, and the unique mountain range at Montserrat – so unique it has been declared a UNESCO conservation area.

Inland Catalonia is as diverse as its coastline: there are undulating hillsides, draped with rich vineyards in some parts, and in others, dry, flat land. The intense dedication of the land workers and the irrigation from the River Ebro favours the region with exceptional olive oil, wine and fruit.

The interior of Catalonia is also graced with amazing historic buildings, fortified villages, superb cities and stunning architecture.

Barcelona, the capital of Catalonia, is also known as the cosmopolitan capital of Spain. It really is one of the most amazing and lively cities in Spain and offers enough sights to fill guidebook upon guidebook with pages and pages of information.

Fact File

Language: CatalánLocation: Northeast SpainPopulation: 6 millionArea: 32,000km2Provinces: Girona, Barcelona, Lleida, TarragonaRegion capital: BarcelonaCostas: Costa Brava, Costa del Maresme, Costa DoradaCurrency: Euro (€) National Day: 11 SeptemberPatron saint: Sant Jordi / San Jorge (Saint George) Patron saints day: 23 AprilGovernment: The GeneralitatMajor Football Clubs: FC Barcelona, EspanyolCatalan Tourist office: 00 34 934 849 900

Sport plays an important role in Catalonia’s tourism infrastructure. Here is a summary of what is on offer:

Don’t go home without visiting:

Tossa de Mar www.tossacostabrava.com

A charming coastal resort steeped in history, and overlooked by the turrets of a 12th century walled town, the Vila Vella (old town), which blends seamlessly into the Vila Nova (new town) – a maze of narrow winding streets dotted with boutique style shops, cosy bars and quality restaurants. Tossa’s strict ‘no high-rise’ policy means your scenic walk provides uninterrupted views from mountain to coast. The Mediterranean Lighthouse Interpretation Centre, opened in September 2005, is something not to be missed. Located at the summit of the Vila Vella, the observation platforms offer spectacular views along this amazingly wild stretch of coastline and the centre itself offers an excellent guided tour and virtual demonstration on the history of the lighthouse.

Girona Historical city Girona, lying inland, is split into two by The River Onyar. Its Cathedral, a fusion of many different historical periods and styles, highlights the old quarter. Take a stroll down the winding streets, shaded by tall, stone walls, offering an abundance of shops and quaint little riverside cafes – there’s one in C/Ballesteries that’s worth a look, its interior tiled with a hotchpotch of Spanish, Moroccan and Turkish influences and seating strewn with luxurious cushions. The Twelfth Century Arab Baths, the old City Walls, and the museums of archaeology and history are of notable interest whilst the churches of Sant Nicolau, Sant Feliu and Sant Pere de Galligants highlight the religious background of the region.

Don’t miss the Saturday market, a parade ground for the local farmers: savour the aroma of their fruit and vegetables, olive oils, herbs, hams, and cheeses. And don’t forget to stop off for some scrumptious freshly made Churros!

Montserrat The Monastery of Montserrat is perched on top of a 1,200-metre mountain amidst breathtaking scenery. Here you’ll find a blend of nature, culture and holiness. This pilgrimage site is as popular as Santiago de Compostela, and travellers are greeted at their journey’s summit by the 12th century Madonna – the Romanesque statue of a black Virgin Mary, known as La Moreneta (the dark virgin). If you are daring enough to take the cable car to the tiny chapel at Santa Cova (the site of the discovery of La Moreneta), you will be amazed by the spectacular views – on a clear day it is possible to see Mallorca!

Montserrat is easily reached from Barcelona with trains leaving every hour.

Sant Feliu de Guixols This town is at the heart of the Costa Brava, surrounded by pine and oak-filled woods. Of particular notability here is the hermitage of Sant Grau and the Gothic church with its celebrated iron gate, the Porta Ferrada. Water sports lovers are well catered for here, particularly in the nearby cove of Cala Salions and fish and seafood lovers will be well catered for with an abundance of beachside restaurants.

Mar i Murtra Jardí Botanic, Blanes http://www.jbotanicmarimurtra.org/ The Mar i Murtra Botanical Gardens in Blanes showcases over 4,000 species of plants from five continents, some of them threatened with extinction. The gardens also have a valuable research and study centre. Once you are in Blanes, take the special Jardí Botanic Bus from the port, up the hair-raising bends to the gardens, which are perched way above the sea, offering amazing views.

Les Illes Medes (The Medes Islands), Toroella de MontgriThe largest marine nature reserve in Catalonia and one of the most important in the whole of the Mediterranean area. The Medes Islands are a small archipelago made up of seven islets and several reefs just a mile off the Catalan coast from Emporda and the Montgri Massif. The area is one of exceptional biological and ecological worth. The varying depths of the sea water around the islands, and the contrast of the rocky and sandy areas of the seabed, combined with the rock-type which lends itself to the formation of tunnels and caves, all work together to attract a wide variety of species – as many as 1,345 have been recorded.

Figueres In the heart of Catalonia you’ll find Figueres, best-known as the birthplace of surrealist artist Salvador Dali and home to the famous Dali Museum. Figueres is also the where the Sardana, the traditional dance of Catalonia, originated,. More must-visits are the castle fortress of Sant Ferran, the parish church of Sant Pere, the Museum of l’Emporda and the Toy Museum.

L’EscalaA small holiday resort at the southern end of the Gulf of Roses. It is a delightful fishing village well known for its delicious sardines. The resort offers much for the water sport enthusiast, two yacht clubs and a number of marinas. This is also the point of entry to the Roman colony of Empúries, the most visited archaeological site in Catalonia.

Barcelona

Capital of Catalonia, Barcelona is also known as the cosmopolitan capital of Spain and is known throughout the world for its amazing architecture as much as for it’s people and way of life.

There is much to see, here are some of the highlights:La Sagrada Familia (Church of the Sacred Family)

Antoni Gaudi’s world-renowned, still to be finished, masterpiece of modernist architecture.

Parc Guell (Guell Park)

Another of Antoni Gaudi’s works, this park is characterised by sculptures and mosaics by the designer, as well as pretty winding paths and tranquil greens.

Museu Picasso (Picasso Museum) Dedicated to the work of art legend Pablo Picasso, this park is a showcase for over three 3,600 paintings, sculptures and drawings.Barcelona Museum of Contemporary Art (Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona) A striking white building designed by architect Richard Meier is home to a collection of Spanish, Catalonian and European modern and contemporary art.Las Ramblas Pedestrianised historical street lined with flower stalls, restaurants and bars. La Boqueria A popular and well known food market selling some of the freshest fruit, vegetables and seafood in Barcelona.Barri Gotic (Gothic Quarter)Historic walking area with buildings dating back to Roman and medieval times. This is where you’ll find the Cathedral de la Seu, a fantastic Gothic cathedral right in the heart of the area.Ciutat Vella (Old City) A fascinating area, steeped in history, with narrow streets and squares, Gothic mansions, museums, historic churches, bars and restaurants. L’Eixample This district dates from the 19th-century and shows off works by famous architects such as Gaudí and Ildefons Cerdà.Port Vell Barcelona’s vivacious harbour, full of yachts and cruise ships, with a popular entertainment complex, featuring a mall, several restaurants, a cinema and an aquarium.Tibidabo Mountain A get-away from the main city, this mountain has a small amusement park and is a favourite walking route for hikers and those looking for a peaceful stroll.Parc Zoologic de Barcelona (Barcelona Zoo)Zoo famous throughout the world for being home to Snowflake, the only captive albino gorilla in the world.Barcelona AquariumThe largest aquarium in Europe, this is one of Barcelona’s main attractions.Nou Camp Stadium This gigantic football stadium, home to FC Barcelona, is the largest in Europe, with a seating capacity of 100,000.

Don’t go home without:

Sampling Crema cremada / Crema Catalana (caramelized custard cream)

No visit to Catalonia is complete without trying this dessert. Catalan cream can be described as crème brullee – creamy custard with a crisp caramel topping. Catalan creams are flavoured with lemon zest and are traditionally served in an earthenware dish.

Watching and Joining in The Sardana The Sardana is a very old Catalan dance. It is an open dance that can be joined and left again at any time. It is danced in a circle, holding hands up in the air and coordinating the steps in accordance with a complex set of rules. The Sardana is performed to the tune of a typical band of ten musicians playing traditional wind instruments. The band is called la Cobla and their sound is very distinctive, and quite addictive.

Throughout the year there are many occasions when you will have the chance to see – or join in – this dance, from local to national fiestas.

Taking a trip by boat along the amazing Costa Brava coastline Whether you take a ferry, a glass-bottom boat, a Catamaran cruise complete with barbeque and champagne, a submarine type boat or a thrilling power boat ride, you’ll be amazed by the bays and coves studding the craggy, pine-carpeted coastline. Some of the bays are only accessible by boat or on foot, making them wonderfully secluded, with tranquil turquoise waters, clear as glass but for the stirring of the breeze! Those daring enough to swim through the labyrinthine tunnels that sprout off some of the caves could even find themselves on a hidden beach, and you may even find some age old forgotten treasure left by pirates many centuries ago!

Watching People make human towers – Castellers One of the most spectacular sights observed during a Catalan festival sees teams of enthusiasts form human towers – castells – which can be up to ten people high.

This complex task of organisation and perfect timing starts with a square of strong men linking arms to form a base, so that lighter men and women can climb onto their shoulders. Concentration is etched in their faces, as more lighter and smaller people climb up, increasing the storeys. Finally, the ‘anxeneta’, a young boy or girl, clambers bravely to the top, some 10 metres above the ground, and lifts one arm to show that the castell is complete.

Immediately after this, the castell begins to unravel – and sometimes the tower will collapse – to gasps from the surrounding crowd who all immediately strengthen their arms in readiness to break the Castellers’ falls.

Experiencing Sant Jordi – a day for lovers in BarcelonaThe equivalent of Valentines Day falls on the day of St George, patron saint of Catalonia, 23 April. This is the most romantic day of the year in Barcelona and for those in love, the ideal place to be. There is an air of happiness and affection everywhere. Tradition says that on this day, men should give the woman in their life a rose, and in return, the woman gives her man a book as a sign of love and friendship. So you’ll see Las Ramblas lined with stall upon stall of roses and books, and lovers everywhere exchanging gifts – and kisses.

Catalonia offers a diverse range of experiences for the visitor. Whether you opt for one of its more animated resorts or prefer to spend your time in one of its charming coastal or inland gems; you will find plenty to do and see. Factor in a trip to the bustling city of Barcelona or the more tranquil yet equally inspiring Girona, and your holiday will be complete.

Holiday ideas for Asturias

Part of the green coast, because of the amount of rainfall.  An autonomous region within Spain it used to be a separate kingdom during the middle ages when the country was still divided.    Despite the fact that over the last few years, the shoals of the Cantabrian Sea have been depleted somewhat, more than half of the coastal village’s populations still make their living from the sea. A large part of the catch is still caught with hook and sinker and as any fish expert will tell you, this is the only way to guarantee the freshest of fish.  Unlike many regions of Spain, great steps have been taken to preserve the beauty and majesty of the impressive coastline which is largely unspoilt by development with a fantastic range of clean sandy beaches.  The main and most compelling reason to visit Asturias is its superb cuisine, which is rated very highly even among the Spanish.  With an economy dominated by farming, crop harvesting and fishing, the way of life in Asturias has retained a continuity that most other parts of the country have now lost.

Asturias and Cantabria sit on the Northern coast of Spain facing out towards the Atlantic, into The Cantabrian Sea.  Asturias is bordered in the East by Cantabria and in The West by Galicia.   The principal city and capital in Asturias is Oviedo.   Other major towns and cities are the seaport and largest city Gijon, and the industrial town ofAviles.

The region represents just over 2% of Spain and has a population in 2006 of around 1.1m. The region has some of Spain’s best natural parks. The mountains known as the Picos de Europa stand towering over a region of fast flowing rivers, vast orchards and tiny farmhouses. Inland the area is rich in minerals. Oviedo, the capital of Asturias is home to about 200,000 people and is known for its university and its industry. The beauty of the area is envied by many Spanish city dwellers.

The Cantabrian Mountains(Cordillera Cantábrica) form Asturias’s natural border with the province of Leon to the south. In the eastern range, the Picos De Europa National Park contains the highest and arguably most spectacular mountains, rising to 2648 metres (8688 ft) at the Torrecerredo peak. Other notable features of this predominantly-limestone range are the Parque Natural de Redes in the central east, the central Ubiñas south of Oviedo, and the Parque Natural de Somiedo in the west.

The Asturian coastline is extensive, with hundreds of beaches, coves and natural sea caves. Most of Asturias’ beaches are sandy, clean and bordered by steep cliffs, on top of which it is not unusual to see grazing livestock.  However it should be noted that water temperature even in Summer remains on the chilly side, it does not attain Mediterranean temperatures which some Spanish visitors may expect.

The climate of Asturias and Cantabria, is more varied than that of southern parts of the country. Summers are generally humid and warm, with considerable sunshine, but also some rain. Winters are cold with some very cold snaps. The cold is especially felt in the mountains, where snow is present from October till May. Both rain and snow are regular weather features of Asturian winters.

The Cantabrian mountains, and especially the Picos De Europa, offer opportunities for activities such as climbing, walking, horse riding, canoeing, skiing and caving, and extend some 200 km in total, as far as Galicia province to the west of Asturias, and Cantabria province to the east.  See National Parks.

Oviedo, the capital city of Asturias: a clean, picturesque city with a diverse architectural heritage. Santa María del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo, a pre-Romanesque church and a palace respectively, which were built by the first Asturian kings on Mount Naranco, to the north of the city.

Covadonga is situated just to the west and north of the Picos de Europa mountain range in the heart of Asturias’ walking and hiking country.  Covadonga so possesses a religious sanctuary with a splendid and historic basilica, a mythical grotto, a museum and both a statue to, and the tomb of, Asturian and Spanish hero, Pelayo. The shrine to the Virgin Mary of Covadonga and the mountain lakes (Los Lagos), near Cangas de Onís. Legend has it that in the 8th century, the Virgin blessed Asturian Christian forces with a well-timed signal to attack Spain’s Moorish conquerors, thereby taking the invaders by surprise. The reconquest and eventual unification of all Spain is therefore said to have started in this very location.

Llanes possesses a number of fine beaches (for example Barro and Ballotta) .  Also nearby is an  unusual rock formation, best viewed at low tide,  on the beach at Buelna village, just East of Llanes.

Comillas is about 50 km West of Santander in Cantabria and 11km east of San Vincente de la Buquera in Asturias, and sits on the coast and is a designated historic-artistic site. It has cobbled streets and squares with ancestral houses, towers and Modernist style buildings. Special mention should be made of: “El Capricho”, a building designed by Antoni Gaudí, with its unmistakable portico and ceramic wall decoration; Sobrellano Palace, a Neo-Gothic construction; the Pontifical University, which dominates the whole village. Comillas has fine sand beaches, perfect for water sports. Alongside the beach you will find Oyambre Nature Reserve, a large coastal area with dunes, cliffs, marshland and an estuary, with a wealth of bird life. We would recommend walks on the trails that run through the village.

Located slightly to the west of Llanes, Ribadesella is beautiful coast facing town with the Picos de Europa mountains behind it and the ocean to its front. The town is estuarial and sees the meeting of the ocean and the river Sella (renowned with canoeists for its famous descent) from which Ribadesella derives its name.  The town is famed for its quaint old quarter. You will see interesting and highly colourful buildings, little paved squares, lots of cafes and an atmosphere filled old quarter with an active market and a number of shops and stalls. Many of these shops concentrate in the local specialties of chocolates and cakes as well as Asturian cheeses for which the region is famous. Goat and lamb’s cheeses are a particular specialty.

Ribadesella is the archetypal former Asturian fishing village turned cultural tourist hotspot. It has a very popular beach, “la playa de Santa Marina” on one side of its estuarial river and the original old town on the other. The two districts are linked by a bridge, the “Puente del Sella”, which is accessible by car and foot. The river Sella forms a natural divide across the town with the older parts of Ribadesella being found to the east of the river, whilst across the bridge to the west lay the more recent expansions of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries.

The town’s original harbour is at the foot of the old district and it is still operational and well worth exploring. The surrounding areas adjacent to the town also boast ancient caves (particularly the “Tito bustillo” which you need to book well in advance) with prehistoric cave paintings within it. Information about these and the town itself can be picked up from the town’s tourism office which lies in a prominent position close to the old bridge.

The senda costera (coastal way) between Pendueles and Llanes: this partly-paved nature route takes in some of Asturias’ most spectacular coastal scenery, such as the noisy bufones (large water spouts created naturally by the erosion of the sea) and the Playa de Ballota. 

Subscribe to RSS

RSS POSTS RSS COMMENTS